Cartier, known for its innovation and attention to detail, has always embraced lacquered dials in its designs for the last 50 years, enhancing the luxurious appeal of its watches.

But what are lacquered dials and what makes it so special?

Lacquer painted dials has existed in watchmaking for over a hundred years. The process involves multiple layers of lacquer being meticulously applied and polished, creating a deep, rich color that shimmers with a unique luster. This technique is rooted in traditional Japanese lacquerware, which was later adopted and adapted by European artisans.

In the 20th century, luxury watch brands began to experiment with lacquered dials, recognizing their ability to add depth and character to a timepiece. Lacquered dials were not just about aesthetics; they were also durable and resistant to fading, ensuring that the watch would maintain its beauty over time.

This particular Cartier Must Tank with a brown lacquer dial is a fine example of the elegance that defined the Must de Cartier line.

Cartier, one of the most prestigious names in luxury watchmaking and jewelry, was founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier. Initially, Cartier focused on jewelry, but the brand quickly expanded its expertise into the world of horology. By the late 19th century, Cartier had established a reputation for creating exquisite, high-quality timepieces, often adorned with precious gems and crafted with exceptional precision.

Picture of Louis Cartier - photo from Wikipedia.com

Innovations and Iconic Designs: Cartier's journey in watchmaking is marked by a series of groundbreaking innovations and iconic designs that have left an indelible mark on the industry.

• The Santos (1904): One of Cartier's most significant contributions to watchmaking is the creation of the Santos watch in 1904. Designed for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, the Santos was one of the first wristwatches ever made. Its distinctive square case and exposed screws set it apart from traditional pocket watches and laid the foundation for modern wristwatches.

• The Tonneau (1906): The Tonneau, introduced in 1906, featured an elongated, barrel-shaped case that was both innovative and aesthetically pleasing. This design showcased Cartier's ability to push the boundaries of traditional watch shapes, offering a unique and elegant alternative to round cases.

• The Tank (1917): Inspired by the Renault tanks used during World War I, Louis Cartier designed the Tank watch in 1917. The rectangular case, clean lines, and integrated lugs created a timeless design that has become one of the most enduring and iconic watch designs in history. The Tank has been worn by numerous celebrities, royals, and influential figures, solidifying its status as a symbol of elegance and sophistication.

Expansion and Diversification: Throughout the 20th century, Cartier continued to expand its watchmaking capabilities, embracing new technologies and materials while staying true to its heritage of craftsmanship and luxury.

• The Pasha (1985): The Pasha de Cartier, introduced in 1985, was inspired by a design commissioned by the Pasha of Marrakech in the 1930s. With its distinctive round case, bold Arabic numerals, and innovative screw-down crown cover, the Pasha became a symbol of sporty elegance and a favorite among watch enthusiasts.

• The Ballon Bleu (2007): Launched in 2007, the Ballon Bleu de Cartier featured a unique, rounded case with a floating crown guard, giving the watch a distinctive, modern appearance. Its combination of classic Cartier elements with contemporary design has made it a popular choice among collectors and connoisseurs.

Haute Horlogerie: In addition to its iconic designs, Cartier has made significant strides in haute horlogerie, producing highly complicated and technically advanced timepieces.

• The Rotonde de Cartier (2008): The Rotonde de Cartier collection, introduced in 2008, showcased the brand's prowess in creating sophisticated complications, including tourbillons, perpetual calendars, and minute repeaters. These watches combined technical excellence with Cartier's signature aesthetic, appealing to discerning collectors.

• The Cartier ID Collection (2009 & 2012): The ID One (2009) and ID Two (2012) concept watches represented Cartier's commitment to innovation and research in watchmaking. These experimental timepieces featured groundbreaking technologies and materials, such as carbon crystal components and vacuum-sealed cases, pushing the boundaries of precision and durability.

The Must de Cartier Collection: In the 1970s, Cartier introduced the Must de Cartier line, aimed at offering more accessible luxury while maintaining the brand's high standards. This collection included a range of watches that featured bold designs, innovative materials, and vibrant colors. The Must de Cartier watches were a commercial success, attracting a new generation of Cartier enthusiasts and reinforcing the brand's position in the market.

Modern Era and Beyond: Today, Cartier continues to be at the forefront of watchmaking, blending its rich heritage with contemporary innovations. The brand's dedication to excellence, creativity, and craftsmanship remains unwavering, ensuring that each Cartier timepiece is a work of art.

• The Drive de Cartier (2016): The Drive de Cartier collection, launched in 2016, epitomizes modern elegance with its cushion-shaped case and refined detailing. It reflects Cartier's ability to evolve while staying true to its core design principles.

Cartier's legacy in watchmaking is characterized by its innovative designs, technical mastery, and unwavering commitment to elegance and luxury. From the pioneering Santos and iconic Tank to the avant-garde concept watches and haute horlogerie masterpieces, Cartier has continually pushed the boundaries of horological art. As a symbol of timeless sophistication, Cartier watches remain coveted by collectors and enthusiasts worldwide, representing the pinnacle of Swiss watchmaking excellence.

• Model: Must De Cartier Tank

• Year: 1980's

• Dial Color: Brown

• Style: Dress

• Bracelet: Original Signed Lizard Leather Strap w/ signed buckle

• Sizing: Fits up to 7.25"

• Box: Yes (Inner Box & Outer Box)

• Papers: Warranty Card & User Manual

This watch was acquired in a private auction and previous owner information is unknown.

The case, and strap are completely flawless. zero scratches and zero wear on the strap which indicates this watch is completely unworn.

The dial appears to be untouched and has cracked due to age, which is completely normal for a lacquer dial, especially if it was stored in a place that can accumulate heat.

The movement has been serviced and overhauled by our professional watchmaker. The movement is running at -3 seconds a day.

• Case Size: 20.5mm x 20.0mm

• Lug Width: 15.0mm

• Lug to Lug: 27.8mm

• Thickness: 6.4mm

• Case Material: Gold Vermeil (Gold Plated .925 Sterling Silver)

• Bezel Material: Gold Vermeil (Gold Plated .925 Sterling Silver)

• Case Back Material: Gold Vermeil (Gold Plated .925 Sterling Silver)

• Bracelet Material: Genuine Lizard leather

• Crystal: Acrylic Crystal

• Luminescence: None

• Manufacturer: Cartier (ETA Base)

• Caliber: Cartier 78/1 (ETA 2512-1)

• Country: Switzerland

• Movement Type:  Manual Wind 2-hand

• Jewels: 17

• Power Reserve: ~42 Hours